Monday, February 9, 2009

Moving on....

Ok people! We can no longer keep from scratching the travel itch so we are off sometime in the next 24 hours to Cambodia. We will be entering the country by bus through Siem Reap. We will then go to Ankor Wat for a few days, then catch a bus through Phnom Phem and onto the southern coast to the beach. It will be tight but at least we will have air con busses this time. We have scaled our travel stuff down to slim pickins....do I really need a shaver and shampoo? The slightest, smallest items feel so burdensome at this point so out they go! So, we do not know what we will encounter when we arrive as far as internet and the ability to connect (it should be ok) but if we are dis-connected again, please know that we are holding you all in our thoughts and prayers (and some of you who shall remain un-singled out so as not to show preference...are being thought of a whole lot!)

until next time,
willandCODY

its not all about the buddha

here in SE Asia, especially Burma, there are many Buddists. But, as it turns out, the Christians are doing the most for those impacted by the cyclone that hit just over one year ago. As some of you may know I donated a day of work at my office in lieu of donations to the orphans of the cyclone that were being cared for by the monastery where I often stay while teaching. Details are often confused and shortly after arriving in Burma I found out that the Monastery never got an orphanage up and running. Then I found myself distressed with the burden of having raised this money and needing to make sure that it ended up in the originally intended place. I inquired often while up North in Burma about where orphanages could be found. It was not until the last day in Burma when I thought to call my friends sister who lives in Rangoon and who is a Catholic that I found an orphanage. My friend lives in Santa Fe and he fled Burma in 1973 when the government killed many of his university friends when had the first wave of protests against the government. he has never been back to his country and has not seen his family since then. I managed to find his sister who is a pathologist in Rangoon and I gave her some photos and correspondence from him. She is a 72 year old woman who still works full time because when you retire in Burma you only make $20/month. Not enough to even by tea and snacks on as I am told. I showed up at Katie's (her christian name) work and waited for her to arrive. The minute she got to work and I explained how I had this donation to drop off she told me about her church, St. Mary's and the work they had done with the cyclone victims and we were off.

We went to St. Mary's and met with the head nun. I can not remember but I think you call this woman a mother....er something/ Anyway it was a trip as this woman came out in actual nun clothes....long gray robe, black habit...the works. A classic look. She was actually from a village that was one of the few that were somewhat spared. She recanted the story of the day that it happened. When the storm rolled in the parents told their children to run to the catholic church as it was the highest and most sound structure in the village and the water was rising fast. The children all ran to the church for safety thinking their parents would all be along shortly once the livestock and things were taken care of. The nun said the only thing that saved then was that when the water level rose they kept climbing higher in the church and finally ended up in the bell tower and on the roof. The parents never made it to the church. They were alll swept to sea by a great wave. The Archbishop commented that in all of his years (over 60) of being with the church officially, had he ever experienced such a tragedy and that once in a lifetime was more than enough. The orphanage houses 54 young girls from age 3 to 18. The boys orphanage has bout the same number. They offered to take me to the orphange but I had just gotten off a 15 hour bus ride and was not eager to take another two hour ride anywhere. I also did not think I could withstand seeing the faces of those children who now had nothing. So I declined the nun said she would send me photos and correspondence from the kids. I decided that was going to be good enough.

Incidently, today as I was at my tailor (he is also from Burma....many people in Thailand are from Burma...the purse I am carrying is a traditional burmese purse that can only be found there and I am immediately asked by people in Thailand where I got it and we are then off talking about Burma)...anyway, my tailor is from Burma and he is one of the lucky rich men who has his paperwork in order and has the money to grease the pockets of some government official in Burma so he can go back and forth. he was there for his sisters wedding and he was stuck for five days because the airport was closed. he said that there are rumors that when the government assessed the scene and found people alive but badly injured they beat them to death instead of offering them aide as their country had no infastructure for this... I completely believe his story. The Nun talked about how after the storm ended and they were able to go outside their were dead people and cows and water buffalo all dead together floating in the water. They lost a priest. A young priest. The blessed the bodies and burried 64 people on the first day following the storm. I consider myself lucky to have never experienced this kind of trauma in my life. These people live under the constant strain of never knowing what tomorrow brings and if they wil even have enough food to feed their families or if someone will come and take away a family member or everything they have because they have made some comment about their government or did not file some useless piece of paperwork with some government office.

Burma is a beautiful place. The people are so innocent in some ways about how the world works. And somehow they manage to maintain this beauty under all of the tyranny.

its time for bed folks...
willandcody

when in Rome....

Hey everyone....we are not in Rome but we are in bangkok and people are often drunk and stumbling around after 4pm in the Khao san road area so we decided to join them! We were determined to get our drunk on and get a little messy (especially Will) but then we had a little indian food and then I had a $4 pedicure where Will and I discussed men who get pedicures and he really can not be swayed that all men who get them are just trying to get laid, but then almost every man I know who gets them is married and has a pretty steady supply of sex in their life, so go figure. Nonetheless, we lost our buzz. Honestly one beer makes me feel pretty giddy and Will gets super funny withthe addition of alcohol and we had the idea that we woudl come to the internet place a little trashed...can you be a little bit trashed....anyway, I found myself being sucked into a 19 year old vortex that in the end never panned out.

What we did do today was attend cooking school. We learned how to cook thai vegetarian food (NO fish sauce!) and had a great time doing it! I also made another trip to the tailor for another fitting of of my suit and ended up ordering another four pairs of pants! They will have them done tomorrow but I will not pick them up until mid march when we are on our way out. We are quickly shedding objects and items that we do not need as we long to travel even lighter. We will be sitting in our guest house asking each other....do I need this long sleeved shirt if I have this hoody? And do I need four pairs of socks....isn't three enough? We are trying to live our lives in the most simple of terms now that work is over for me and we are now headed into uncertain territory. We have decided that Vietnam and Cambodia are the two most important places for us to visit and if we have enough time we will head into Laos. But before I talk about the future plans of our trip I shoudl try to give you more updates on Burma.

see you in the next blog
willandcody

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Mingalabar!

hey everybody! Will and I are feeling almost normal. We are back in Bangkok, this filthy stinky city and feeling a little out of sorts in a strange country. Will, much to my relief, loved Burma as much as I did the moment we stepped off the plane. It is an experience I will try to do my best to explain here to you all in this blog but I already know I will fail. There is a calm and inner peace that simply washes over me from the moment I arrive. It is the same feeling that catches me every single time I make the journey North from Albuquerque to Santa Fe. Watching the Sandia's rising up from the desert floor on the right and the Sangre de Christo's waiting to welcome me home the minute I get to the top of the mountain. It is simply put, a sense of coming home. This throw back of a country that has so much potential feels like me home. This time I actually inquired about the cost of my "dream home" in Sagaing. near the hospital and Monastery where I have been working and teaching these last four years. It would cost with the land included a whopping $4000. It was all I could do to not break ground this trip but my students are inquiring about what it would take to have a foreigner acquire land there. So, more on that in the future...time share? vacation rental?

Will has been great to travel with. And with every great journey, we have had some interesting times. Sometimes stressful, sometimes we laughed so loud the locals were concerned. There is something about Myanmar time that makes you really come to understand how ridiculous the construct of time truly is and what slaves we are to it. I would be the first to say that I was so please, those you who know me, don't give me a hard time here. I find myself always aware of where the sun is in the sky and when the sun is setting. What else do you really need to know?

I will try to summarize what we did in Myanmar and then go back and elaborate. We arrived in Rangoon/Yangon and immediately made plans to get to Ngaplai beach. I have been to this beach two other times and it is by far the best beach you can visit. Cheap, clean, and no one on it. SO different than Thailand! After the beach we went to Pyay, then onto Bagan, then to Mandalay and then Sagaing and then back to Rangoon and now back here, Bangkok. I am doing my best to hang in here at the internet but the air-conditioning is so cold I may have to throw int he towel early.

When we were in Rangoon trying to get to the beach, which was my first order of business in Myanmar, I had to get to the beach! We inquired about taking the bus. It was a 20 hour trip and only cost 20,000 Kyat whic is a little less than about $18. I was weary of a 20 hour bus trip...have not done that since I was jumping on busses to DC to protest war in Iraq (the first time) and for reproductive rights....the good old days when my spine was more limber and life was more of a party and I could go without sleeping for a few days. Anyway, we were told the bus was full the day we wanted to leave. Then I asked about the next day and was told it was then only a local bus, and the next day as well...essentially I was being told that the bus was never going to be available and that we needed to buy a plane ticket. So we bought plane tickets to the beach and flew out the next day. I did nothing for five days. really. I had no book to read, and I simply laid on the beach and wrote and listened to Lou Rawls and Etta James for hours on end. A little weird music combination with the surf but I went with it. Will and I went snorkling one day and it was amazing. It cost $12 for almost a whole day that included lunch on a small island eatig a whole bar-b-qued fish that our guide had stabbed to death with a spear in the water in front of Will. Fresh catch anyone? it was delicious and washed down with a Myanmar beer. The beach was so relaxing that I had a moment the night before we left that I was so sad we were having to leave already. I told Will that I was seriously considering not showing up to work and teach and just spending the next month right there in the beach. he said that would be fine by him. He really is easy to travel with! In the end we decided that we really wanted to have this trip be about the coast lines of the countries we were visiting. which really means we want to have as much beach life as we possibly can. So, we will be visiting the beach in Cambodia and Vietnam. We are still trying to figure out what we want to do with Laos.

While we were at the beach we ate fresh sea food everyday. Will had the opportunity to buy alcohol legally and enjoyed buying a fifth of Myanmar rum (1300 kyat = $1.30 US) and we had what we came to call the Burmalibre (rip of of the cubrelibre) everyday around 4pm, some days a little bit earlier. We drank a fair amount at the beach. What else do you do at the beach. Sun all day then have one beer and you are drunk. Or at least I am.

It is also funny watching people and their reactions to our traveling together. We will ask for a double which usually means a room with two single beds and sometimes they will show us toa room with one queen size bed. They assume we are "together" which always makes me laugh and feel oh so creepy and then we laugh again and try to explain aunt, nephew, blah blah blah. In the end we never have any idea what people are thinking but boy to they like. I forget how intense the staring is in the parts and am quickly reminded of what it feels like to be a minority.

Oh crap, more tomorrow after cooking school. I have not slept much in the last three days and am positively exhausted. More tomorrow!

Ciao
willandcody

Half way gone...

What can you do with 10 dollars in the good old USA- maybe fill half a tank of gas in your econ-vehicle, maybe get one person into a cinema film, maybe a small meal at a restaurant...

In southeast Asia, 10 US dollars will easily get you a hotel room (dirty) for two, a beer or three, some noodles, a visit to the local gold-leafed Buddha image, and probably a taxi ride around town.

If the 284387635 touts asking "hey, where you go" don't wear you out, the heat will, and after walking around for several hours looking at the different items- ranging from complete crap toys to beautiful woven handicrafts to stolen digital cameras- the comfort of a small tea stand is unmatched.

So you grab a taxi- maybe the back of some locals motor-scooter, maybe a tiny blue Mazda truck, maybe one of the "quality" local taxis, maybe a bike with a side cart (the driver can easily carry two passengers and three tons of luggage up hill at 25 km/hr) back from the market to the streets where your hotel rests. Though it seems like a fairly busy intersection to you, the driver has apparently never heard of it, and while you struggle to pronounce the names of the streets, he drives around, aimlessly, in search of your final destination. ALAS, you arrive, three blocks shy of your beautiful guest house, dusty and sweaty, and head to the nearest tea shop. You grab a seat upon one of those plastic stools, about a foot above the ground, and order a Myanmar Tea, Tea with Milk, or Bo man SE from the 10 year old boy who taking orders. Your tea arrives in a small, dirty white tea cup, and after stirring for 2 minutes and taking about what a great tea it really is, you drink it up and watch the locals ooogle over your clothing and skin color.

After tea, you somehow climb the 18 flights of stairs to your room- two beds and a writing table (if you are lucky)- and cuddle up with the sleep sack and your diary to recollect the days events.

Burma/Myanmar is truly a beautiful place.

Everyone is welcome, and at no time does one ever feel as though the locals don't want him/her there. The people, despite the oppression they face from their ruthless government and the poverty associated with a developing nation, are as friendly as they come, ready to shout a few words of English and maybe give you a business card.

The bus rides are long, dusty, and there is constantly unharmonious music blaring from the speakers. The chocolate lacks taste. Time stands still, maybe just for a moment while you get caught up in realizing how much you feel at home, even thousands of miles away from your actual mailing address.

The weeks we spent in Myanmar were, for me, life changing. You really get a great appreciation for the life you have at home and the opportunity you are born into when you visit a place like this. I cannot begin to describe the experience, more than this, without spending hours on the computer. which i do not want to do....

Cody and I are at this net cafe of Khao San road in Bangkok now. We've been here once already today, trying to avoid the touts and the tuk-tuk drivers. There is this really fat man that has been in here every single time we come, both visits. Funny stuff. Tomorrow we will take Mai Kay Dee's cooking course and tr to figure out to exit this country.

Much travels ahead. To all the folks back home, BE WELL, and tell your lovers you love them.

More later,
WILL(and Cody.)

Saturday, February 7, 2009

little bit dusty and dirty....

but other wise pretty healthy. Mingalabar everyone! Will and I are back from Myanmar/Burma. I was unable to check my email and the blogspot due to government restiction. Right now I am just going to do a qick update and then come back a little later and update you on all of Burma. We were there for 22 days and it went by so fast. Every last part of it was amazing and beautiful and we will try to put up at least one new photo of us. Will contracted giardia the last three days we were there. Thankfully, my associate acupuncturist from Germany was traveling with a huge bottle of grapefruit seed extract and we jumped right on it. I forgot to pack this myself, it was on my list and I ran out of time due to too many distractions before I left. Anyway, he is better and had his first meal last night after two days. We have come to understand that we are compatible travel mates and somewhat the yin and yang of one another.....he is shitting too much, me not so much. We stayed at the monastery the last ten days and each had our own cabin. It is wonderful at the monastery but they have outhouse style squatter toilets that have lots of mosquitos fluing about. I have grown to despise the sound of the mosquito. Perhaps Will and I will dedicate one single blog to restrooms conditions in Myanmar. Pretty interesting to say the least.

I am feeling a little depressed today after what seems like such a whirlwind tour of Burma. The time with my friends/students is never quite enough and the goodbye is always tearful. We never really know when we will see each other again. I suppose this is a lesson with any situation in life, that you never know what will come tomorrow and should make the most of today. We certainly made the most of the trip. We are now trying to decide what is the next best destination. We have just over a month left and we would like to try and make it to Cambodia Laos and Vietnam. It will almost be impossible and we may need to drop Laos or Vietnam...so hard to choose, not quite as serious as Sophie's choice obviously, but still, to not choose either is heartbreaking.

Ok, I think this is all the time I have for now. Need to go to another internet cafe that will let me get to my .mac account and pay some bills!

Talk to you all soon enough!

willandcody

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

hello everyone. Tonight I must take up the serious topic of keyboarding. I realize that long gone are the days when kids take typewriting in seventh grade with Mrs. Graves at Central Intermediate but was that such a bad skill to encourage of the young? I now find myself in many internet cafe's with so many characters on the keys you can hardly discern what you are typing. Every person has their own style but the italian lady and her man friend next to me really seems to be a bit of a banger on the keys. She is THE fastest tow fingered hunt and pecker I have ever seen. As far as the all time fastest typer I have ever witnesses it would have to be Dr. Alix Bjorklund my former associate who had the most amazing skill I could have watched her at the computer for hours.

Anyway, Will and I are pulling out of Bangkok in the early morning for Bangkok. The suit fits fine and will be done when we get back. Hope all is well in the mean time.
will and cody