Because my Virgo mind is chained to forever view life through the practical critique of all experiences (not to be confused with criticism as Virgo's are also known for), I spend a lot of my travels looking for similarities to my usual life back home. What we have witnessed here in Nha Trang is that when the garbage truck comes down your street, people are also caught off guard and will run after it to dispose of their trash. This was probably the most comforting thing to witness yet. I had made the comment to Will on the way to dinner that I thought that trash day may be tomorrow because there were piles of trash on the side walks that had not been there before earlier in the day when I was walking. Then as we were eating dinner I noticed the garbage truck pull up in front of us and it was shortly after that that noticed the flurry of activity around us as the girls in the restaurant collected the trash and ran out after it. Other businesses were doing the same. To the town of Nha Trang's credit they appear to take anything in their trash pick up including building materials and big items. I wonder what their monthly water/sewage charge is?
When traveling I really love to run and do some type of physical exercise. I have encountered some of the most fit older folks here than anywhere. They have a passion for badmitton and while I can tell these folks are well into their seventies they all have the best heads of jet black hair. The Asians may have more issues with hair vanity that the Westerner's. Black hair is truly the color of vitality and these folks where showing just how much they had at 5:30 in the morning! When I was running three days ago this older dude rode up next to me on his bike (we were both on a paved path at the top of the beach). He gave me a sweet smile and said "ok, now you run faster" I quickly took him up on his challenge and yelled "lets race" and took off sprinting. He totally stepped it up and chased me down. I think we only went on for about two blocks worth and then we were at the end of the path and my run was over anyway. We both then did our calisthenics together...he did a version of some Qi Gong movements and I did some push-ups and jumping jacks. I then moved out onto the beach and did some yoga and had a quick audience. About a dozen older dudes who were done working out sat close by and talked amongst themselves on the beach while watching me. When I was done I ran right into the sea! It was very refreshing and I wished every run could end that way. I grabbed my shoes and headed for the hotel to wake up Will and get some breakfast. We have a shared love of Vietnamese coffee! Iced or hot! I never allow myself this in America. It makes me positively crazy it is so strong. We have both suffered for my indiscretions with Vietnamese coffee for the last two weeks, I am certain of it.
Later I will write a blog about body functions...one of my favorite topics.
Off to pack and get ready to leave this wonderful paradise. Can hardly believe I am going to go but I have to. I guess.
Later aligators...
willandCODY
Saturday, February 28, 2009
The Color Purple
Is truly magnificent when viewed as a lovely silk wall hanging in a Catholic Church half way round the world from home. Today I went to church. It is Sunday after all. I have spent so much time getting to know the Buddha and the Tao here in SE Asia that I thought it might be time to get back to my roots and see how the Christians were doing it. It was truly like coming home. The Church itself is just kn0wn as the Nha Trang Cathedral. It was built in 1912 of cement block but in a simple French Gothic design. A true classic. Reminded me much of St. Brigid's back in Midland, MI where my spiritual path would start so many years ago. For the most part the internal elements were the same...there was J. C. (Jesus Christ) hanging from the cross above the alter. Only difference is that the cross was outlined in red neon lighting which I think was a nice addition and want to recommend for the West. There were pews and a place to kneel in front of the pew. I took a seat on the left (but really its the right hand if you are taking directions from JC's perspective) half way up. Kneeled and said my prayers and waited for the service to start. The 9:30 mass was a good choice as the choir was singing today and while I am not certain which song they had chose for the day they sounded so lovely. Honestly, everything was the same although some parts of the mass that we would speak they sang them. Like the part where the Priest is holding up the body of Christ and we respond "lord I am not worthy to receive you but only say the word and I shall be healed....they sing that part and it was lovely. I stood and took communion with the other parishioners. It was a powerful experience to say the least. I realized half way through the mass that I have not actually sat through services since my mothers funeral almost seven years ago. March 28th 2002. When I walked up the Priest looked a little startled to see me there in line. He was able to get out in English "the body of Christ" and I said Amen back to him and he put it in my mouth. There was no blood of Christ to be offered so I obviously passed on that. Such a moving experience. I cried all the way through mass. Pretty sure it was enough of a strange experience for my fellow parishioners to see some blond woman but then to have her weeping and wiping her eyes with her hanky is quite another. We all made it through though. It was nice to feel so at home in this cathedral and not get too caught up in what the church represents to me now and what I represent to the church for that matter. I was just open for an experience and I got what I came for. And I gave a generous tything too. I loved sitting there and knowing the experience so clearly despite the fact that it was all in Vietnamese save for the AMEN. I realized while sitting there that the Purple sashes worn by the two priests and hanging from the wall represent the time of year. It now must be lent by my calculations since Fat Tuesday is all about being followed by Ash Wednesday.
And so it is a time to renew. According to the Catholic faith, but also by the law of nature. Which I am certain the catholic/christian holidays all follow from the Pagan celebrations. The fall noted the dying of the season and everything returning to the land, and now the land is becoming ripe again...getting itself ready for the thaw and spring and the birth of all new things...birds, flowers, trees, and so it goes. Anything with a life cycle is effected by these laws of nature. Even our human bodies. I think it is right that I chose to travel at this time of the year. For many reasons it is obvious, to avoid the cold but during this time of traveling so far away I feel like I have finally arrived at home and a greater level of peace within myself. The last fews day since arriving at the beach I have struggled with an inner turmoil that was becoming quite unpleasant for myself and surely for Will. I finally asked for some time alone and it was decided that he wanted to just go ahead to Hoi An and I would meet him in another day or so. From the minute it was decided I could feel the tides changing inside of me. I had wanted this journey to be more than just seeing what the rest of SE Asia had to offer. I wanted it to be about the further excavation of myself. I wanted to be more clear about the direction of my life and what I wanted to let go of and to also draw more near. Will could never have known he was hitching his wagon onto such a trip but he has done unbelievably well and I do believe he has come to know himself that much better as he had to navigate his own way through this trip.
After church today I went back to my hotel and had the best cry I have had in years. I honestly do not recall crying that much or that hard for almost seven years. it was beautiful and cleansing to say the very least. I feel like that is what I have been waiting for for far too long and the room it has created inside of me feels good. I see where the elements have been trying to line up to make it all possible and at every moment I have felt supported by the universe to get to this very moment. I was able to make it to this wonderful beach where I was not able to do anything but rest and stop fighting myself. And then the rain came yesterday, the night after Will and I spoke and seemed to wash everything away that we were holding collectively between us and for others. Although I can only speak for myself I am certain that I also noticed a shift in Will and we both felt better for it. I went for a long run on the beach in the rain and it felt wonderful. I had the biggest cheesy smile on my face that I could not have even tried to wipe off and I was so damn happy. I was so thankful for Will's unfailing companionship on this trip and his ability to be gentle with me at times when everything in his yang-filled 19 year old male body tells him to do other wise with his energy. His is a good balance for his age.
In the afternoon before he left we rented a moto and headed off to find the church for me so I could find out the times of mass today. Then we just took in the town of Nha Trang. It truly is beautiful here, the perfect balance of mountains and water. We drove into the foothills unsure of how far we should go because we did not know how much gas we actually had...either we had no gas or the gas indicator was broken. It turned out that we actually were low on gas and eventually we would run out of gas and then I would push us to buy gas where while buying a liter of gas we would be offered marijuana and "blow" very cheap, good stuff....we declined. Later after Will left I walked to the store and was offered marijuana twice more in the short distance of one block. Can these people smell my pot-a-holic days of youth? Or are they simply just trying to make a sale like those folks selling books, jewelry...etc. These guys just looked a little more shadey. Anyway, we drove out to the foothills past the ship yard and I think we encountered the naval academy? All I know is that there were about two hundred young men running along side of the road in matching uniforms with back packs and guns and when we rounded a curve and we saw each other at the same time they all waved and yelled "hello!" It was pretty sweet and for the first time someone was saying hello to us just because they wanted to not because they wanted to sell us something. Unless they were arms dealers.... It was great and just what we needed. Will got on the sleeping bus bound for Hoi An at 7pm. He texted me an hour later telling me that it was a huge party and the bus was over booked and he was fine. I guess we both got what we needed.
Maybe a little more later
willandCODY
And so it is a time to renew. According to the Catholic faith, but also by the law of nature. Which I am certain the catholic/christian holidays all follow from the Pagan celebrations. The fall noted the dying of the season and everything returning to the land, and now the land is becoming ripe again...getting itself ready for the thaw and spring and the birth of all new things...birds, flowers, trees, and so it goes. Anything with a life cycle is effected by these laws of nature. Even our human bodies. I think it is right that I chose to travel at this time of the year. For many reasons it is obvious, to avoid the cold but during this time of traveling so far away I feel like I have finally arrived at home and a greater level of peace within myself. The last fews day since arriving at the beach I have struggled with an inner turmoil that was becoming quite unpleasant for myself and surely for Will. I finally asked for some time alone and it was decided that he wanted to just go ahead to Hoi An and I would meet him in another day or so. From the minute it was decided I could feel the tides changing inside of me. I had wanted this journey to be more than just seeing what the rest of SE Asia had to offer. I wanted it to be about the further excavation of myself. I wanted to be more clear about the direction of my life and what I wanted to let go of and to also draw more near. Will could never have known he was hitching his wagon onto such a trip but he has done unbelievably well and I do believe he has come to know himself that much better as he had to navigate his own way through this trip.
After church today I went back to my hotel and had the best cry I have had in years. I honestly do not recall crying that much or that hard for almost seven years. it was beautiful and cleansing to say the very least. I feel like that is what I have been waiting for for far too long and the room it has created inside of me feels good. I see where the elements have been trying to line up to make it all possible and at every moment I have felt supported by the universe to get to this very moment. I was able to make it to this wonderful beach where I was not able to do anything but rest and stop fighting myself. And then the rain came yesterday, the night after Will and I spoke and seemed to wash everything away that we were holding collectively between us and for others. Although I can only speak for myself I am certain that I also noticed a shift in Will and we both felt better for it. I went for a long run on the beach in the rain and it felt wonderful. I had the biggest cheesy smile on my face that I could not have even tried to wipe off and I was so damn happy. I was so thankful for Will's unfailing companionship on this trip and his ability to be gentle with me at times when everything in his yang-filled 19 year old male body tells him to do other wise with his energy. His is a good balance for his age.
In the afternoon before he left we rented a moto and headed off to find the church for me so I could find out the times of mass today. Then we just took in the town of Nha Trang. It truly is beautiful here, the perfect balance of mountains and water. We drove into the foothills unsure of how far we should go because we did not know how much gas we actually had...either we had no gas or the gas indicator was broken. It turned out that we actually were low on gas and eventually we would run out of gas and then I would push us to buy gas where while buying a liter of gas we would be offered marijuana and "blow" very cheap, good stuff....we declined. Later after Will left I walked to the store and was offered marijuana twice more in the short distance of one block. Can these people smell my pot-a-holic days of youth? Or are they simply just trying to make a sale like those folks selling books, jewelry...etc. These guys just looked a little more shadey. Anyway, we drove out to the foothills past the ship yard and I think we encountered the naval academy? All I know is that there were about two hundred young men running along side of the road in matching uniforms with back packs and guns and when we rounded a curve and we saw each other at the same time they all waved and yelled "hello!" It was pretty sweet and for the first time someone was saying hello to us just because they wanted to not because they wanted to sell us something. Unless they were arms dealers.... It was great and just what we needed. Will got on the sleeping bus bound for Hoi An at 7pm. He texted me an hour later telling me that it was a huge party and the bus was over booked and he was fine. I guess we both got what we needed.
Maybe a little more later
willandCODY
Thursday, February 26, 2009
maybe just a little more...on transportation
Good evening everyone! We have just finished dinner. Yet another bowl of Pho and beer and spring rolls. Entire dinner for two with stuffed bellies equals just over $6. The food on this trip has been amazing. And again, still want to thank the country of France yet again for the early colonization of Vietnam, as well. Not ready to give up my baguette quite yet.
Before I give a summary about travel I must say a little bit more about the food and beverage. I can only eat vegetarian in my travels. Well, at least when I am doing the ordering. When I am having a dinner in my honor as with my students I have to eat what is served. It would be rude not to. Will and I had the opportunity to be walking in the beach side town of Kep (with the disappointing beach) only to see a little piggy all "hog-tied" so to speak and on its way to market on the back of a moto. The only problem was that it was till alive and you could here it crying ( I honestly cannot recall the word for the sound a pig makes....it this not a sure sign of a senior moment or what...) I could hear something that sounded a little odd, said something to Will, and sure enough, a moto passed us by with this huge hog all tied up on the back of the moto. It was in this moment that I was certain of my decision. I only eat (for the most part) organic steroid free flesh in America....and this is a far cry from it here.
Plus, after you have walked through a market in any developing nation only to witness the flesh laid out with tons of flies all over it and no refrigeration it cures your desire for it. Or at least for me it does.
With regard to travel...we did an estimation on modes of travel and total hours spent enduring and it appears the total looks like the following...although there did seem to be a disagreement about adding...having two virgos together makes details highly scrutinized...
Boat: 10 hours
Car: about six
Bus: aircon and no aircon... somewhere over 70.
Airplane: maybe five hours...not including the marathon it takes to get to Bangkok from ABQ.
And we have a few places yet to go. We decided today that Laos is out. I think we are both tired and honestly I am having a hard time leaving the beach. I feel for Will, he has nothing to do and having nothing to do at19 is a lot different than having nothing to do at 39. He has contented himself with the tv and air con room. We will be heading out at some point for Hoi An....we need to go there because our visas for Vietnam will expire before we leave and there is a large penalty for this...so we must stop off in Hoi An and get to the consulate. We were going to go there anyway as it is a natural half way distance between Nha Trang and Hanoi.
So, that is what is up with us. A whole lot of nothing but time to think about stuff that you have no control over, like for instance, the future...and read some books now that we both have a few after last night!
good night,
willandCODY
Before I give a summary about travel I must say a little bit more about the food and beverage. I can only eat vegetarian in my travels. Well, at least when I am doing the ordering. When I am having a dinner in my honor as with my students I have to eat what is served. It would be rude not to. Will and I had the opportunity to be walking in the beach side town of Kep (with the disappointing beach) only to see a little piggy all "hog-tied" so to speak and on its way to market on the back of a moto. The only problem was that it was till alive and you could here it crying ( I honestly cannot recall the word for the sound a pig makes....it this not a sure sign of a senior moment or what...) I could hear something that sounded a little odd, said something to Will, and sure enough, a moto passed us by with this huge hog all tied up on the back of the moto. It was in this moment that I was certain of my decision. I only eat (for the most part) organic steroid free flesh in America....and this is a far cry from it here.
Plus, after you have walked through a market in any developing nation only to witness the flesh laid out with tons of flies all over it and no refrigeration it cures your desire for it. Or at least for me it does.
With regard to travel...we did an estimation on modes of travel and total hours spent enduring and it appears the total looks like the following...although there did seem to be a disagreement about adding...having two virgos together makes details highly scrutinized...
Boat: 10 hours
Car: about six
Bus: aircon and no aircon... somewhere over 70.
Airplane: maybe five hours...not including the marathon it takes to get to Bangkok from ABQ.
And we have a few places yet to go. We decided today that Laos is out. I think we are both tired and honestly I am having a hard time leaving the beach. I feel for Will, he has nothing to do and having nothing to do at19 is a lot different than having nothing to do at 39. He has contented himself with the tv and air con room. We will be heading out at some point for Hoi An....we need to go there because our visas for Vietnam will expire before we leave and there is a large penalty for this...so we must stop off in Hoi An and get to the consulate. We were going to go there anyway as it is a natural half way distance between Nha Trang and Hanoi.
So, that is what is up with us. A whole lot of nothing but time to think about stuff that you have no control over, like for instance, the future...and read some books now that we both have a few after last night!
good night,
willandCODY
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
I love the beach.
Hello Everyone! We arrived at the beach a couple of days ago..I honestly can't remember as I am now officially on beach time and I have no gauge for real time. And I don't care either... Will mentioned yesterday or at some point that we needed to get our tickets to head toward Hanoi and all my mind could think about, and very muddled at that, was ...leave, what, why are we leaving? The beginning of the trip started with the beach of Myanmar. Ngapali Beach...my favorite. But this fine beach of Nha Trang is a very close second. If the town was quieter and smaller then it would probably be the new favorite. It is in times like this, when I am lying on a beach when I wonder to myself...why do I live in the desert? I love the water and miss it. Every trip away from Santa Fe always includes some water to moisten my soul. I could never leave the mountains either, so I guess I will either have to find the perfect balance of beach and mountains sometime in my life.
Once we arrived here I let Will know right away that there would be no economy backpacker accomodations for me. We are staying at a lovely hotel with crisp clean white sheets that we actually sleep on/in instead of our silk sleep sacks. The room is gorgeous with a little bit of a view and air conditioning AND cable....we have actually watched tv at times after coming in from the beach, and the best part of the whole scenario is that it only cost$30/night. I could stay right here for the next two plus weeks until it all comes to an end.
Yesterday i bought three silk dresses and some lingere! I can not even quote a price because I feel a little bit like a criminal. They were so cheap that I feel like I stole them!
When we arrived in Nha Trang I suggested that we just get off the bus and decline the moto taxi guys and make our own way to a hotel. I am admittedly tired of people asking me "where you go?...where you from?...you want taxi? You want buy book? Hey lady you want buy some jewelry today? The answer is consistently no, no and no. At this point in the trip I realize that I am beyond tired and the desire to be chatty has left me all together. I now simply walk past these people totally silent. I stare straight ahead and say nothing. Will, on the other hand is still being polite and says, Oh, no thank you, or some other kind or silly retort.
So when the bus pulled up there was the gang of moto taxi guys waiting for us. It was 545 am. Before we were even off the bus they were tapping on my window saying hey lady you want taxi? You Need Hotel? yelling through the bus window. It was all too insufferable. I realize these folks hardly make more than what I spend on my coffee addiction and I should be more sympathetic, but after awhile you see the rigged game you are all a part of and eventually I don't want to play anymore. Once you realize what a pawn you are the whole thing loses its luster. Also, the infuriating thing is that they hardly leave you any room to actually get off the bus and collect your bag. We clearly stated NO we do not want your help and still they persisted. We started walking down the road toward the beach and we had a couple of guys following us on their motos waving hotel flyers and trying to get us on their motos. We knew that a hotel was just two blocks away and we could just walk. Its not that we could not afford the $1-2 they would have charged to take us there...but there is something energetically that is not to my standards that makes me not want these folks help. Maybe I have lived in Santa Fe too long and some of you are now rolling your eyes in your head with that comment. But really, to be successful on the road you have to have an inner compass that says yes to some situations and no to others...not just for safety sake, but to also not put your energy in the line of someone elses energy that seems black and sucking. That should probably be enough on that subject...
Anyway, we left the street and these guys behind and walked on the beach for a little while and then decided to get some breakfast and then get a hotel. When we went back to the road the same guys were there waiting for us. Unbelievable! I asked them if they did not have anyone else to harrass in town but they did not get it.
We had a great breakfast and really took our time looking at many hotels. It had to be just right for me. Will and I came up with a great deal that he would pay $5 a day toward the room and buy me a beer everyday and I would pick up the rest of the cost. We went to hotels from $200/night to $10 a night and honestly the price for $30/night is just as nice as the one that was $100 night, just a block further from the beach. No problem! It feels so good to be here and honestly the only thing missing for me at this point is a sexy female companion. Actaully, I am certain the same goes for Will too. Someday I will travel to these lovely places perhaps with a great love. For the first time in a long time, I could actually see myself doing it, too. Enough about the future though..
So today we are renting a tandem bike and heading off to yet another Pagoda. It has been three days without a single prayer and we have stuff to pray about. This is Will's suggestion actually, he wants to go to the pagoda...I could easily stay on the beach and not do another thing besides read and sleep. I feel confident that we will have no transportation issues with the bike. Traffic is slow and easy here.
We had a little too much to drink last night....the Why Not Bar has happy hour from 9am to midnight....we started there and then headed to the cycle cafe for dinner. While you are eating people often walk up and try to sell their stuff. I realize that when we are eating I am usually the one looking out and I simply shake my head and they go away and Will never really deals with these people because his back is to them...we had a reversal of that last night and I realize after parting with about ten dollars on stuff I would never have bought that we need to go back to the original plan OR Will needs to toughen up.
When we arrived at the cafe a woman was selling books (bootlegged copies) and wanted to know if I wanted one...I actually looked in her box and told her I had read everyone of them. Then I started asking her if she had read this one or that one...and that she should, it was a good book...kind of reverse harassment I guess. Anyway, she left and we sat down for dinner. Then another guy showed up selling books and Will said "later, after dinner." I said you cant tell that guy to wait and then not buy one! He said he never said he was going to buy one, just that he would look later....it has been my experience that if you say later, it means you will be BUYING one LATER. This was going to be good. We had our dinner and there was a woman who came in selling bracelets. I told her no. She went away. At the end of the meal I went to the bathroom and when I came out there was a young man on the floor with his portfolio out selling pictures of life in Vietnam. Will was looking at them. I could not believe it. Give an inch and they will take a mile and then when you say no after they have taken the time to show things to you they get really bossy and pout and get a little mad. I ended up buying a picture because I felt we had to karmically as this guy had went through his whole protfolio and the Will said he had no money. Ugh! So I parted with 100,000 dong (about $6). The guy had it all figured out....he rolled the picture into a tight roll and put it in a pvc tube. No problem. The guy was a really beautiful man....stunning actually and I told him that he should be a model and not selling other peoples artwork and he said the comment made him uncomfortable. I guess maybe the booze made me say such a flirtatious thing, but really, he was beautiful. Will agreed.
So, in the mean time while we are pouring over pictures the book guy has disappeared only to reappear with an insane amount of books! I looked at Will and said, ok now you have to buy a book! We ended up buying three books....two for me and one for Will. The guy was happy. We were finally leaving and the lady who had wanted to sell me bracelets earlier was still there. She had watched us give our money to two other people. She asked me again if I wanted some jewelry and I said no. She got pissed and said "excuse me....you buy photo, you buy book, why you no buy jewelry....." I looked at her and said, because I do not want....and walked away. It was probably a shitty thing to do but I had already said no. These folks have the inside track on how to tap into latent catholic guilt. I am STILL thinking about that lady even today!
Ok, thats enough...we have a pagoda to ride to and then there is always the beach...
Ciao
willandCODY
Once we arrived here I let Will know right away that there would be no economy backpacker accomodations for me. We are staying at a lovely hotel with crisp clean white sheets that we actually sleep on/in instead of our silk sleep sacks. The room is gorgeous with a little bit of a view and air conditioning AND cable....we have actually watched tv at times after coming in from the beach, and the best part of the whole scenario is that it only cost$30/night. I could stay right here for the next two plus weeks until it all comes to an end.
Yesterday i bought three silk dresses and some lingere! I can not even quote a price because I feel a little bit like a criminal. They were so cheap that I feel like I stole them!
When we arrived in Nha Trang I suggested that we just get off the bus and decline the moto taxi guys and make our own way to a hotel. I am admittedly tired of people asking me "where you go?...where you from?...you want taxi? You want buy book? Hey lady you want buy some jewelry today? The answer is consistently no, no and no. At this point in the trip I realize that I am beyond tired and the desire to be chatty has left me all together. I now simply walk past these people totally silent. I stare straight ahead and say nothing. Will, on the other hand is still being polite and says, Oh, no thank you, or some other kind or silly retort.
So when the bus pulled up there was the gang of moto taxi guys waiting for us. It was 545 am. Before we were even off the bus they were tapping on my window saying hey lady you want taxi? You Need Hotel? yelling through the bus window. It was all too insufferable. I realize these folks hardly make more than what I spend on my coffee addiction and I should be more sympathetic, but after awhile you see the rigged game you are all a part of and eventually I don't want to play anymore. Once you realize what a pawn you are the whole thing loses its luster. Also, the infuriating thing is that they hardly leave you any room to actually get off the bus and collect your bag. We clearly stated NO we do not want your help and still they persisted. We started walking down the road toward the beach and we had a couple of guys following us on their motos waving hotel flyers and trying to get us on their motos. We knew that a hotel was just two blocks away and we could just walk. Its not that we could not afford the $1-2 they would have charged to take us there...but there is something energetically that is not to my standards that makes me not want these folks help. Maybe I have lived in Santa Fe too long and some of you are now rolling your eyes in your head with that comment. But really, to be successful on the road you have to have an inner compass that says yes to some situations and no to others...not just for safety sake, but to also not put your energy in the line of someone elses energy that seems black and sucking. That should probably be enough on that subject...
Anyway, we left the street and these guys behind and walked on the beach for a little while and then decided to get some breakfast and then get a hotel. When we went back to the road the same guys were there waiting for us. Unbelievable! I asked them if they did not have anyone else to harrass in town but they did not get it.
We had a great breakfast and really took our time looking at many hotels. It had to be just right for me. Will and I came up with a great deal that he would pay $5 a day toward the room and buy me a beer everyday and I would pick up the rest of the cost. We went to hotels from $200/night to $10 a night and honestly the price for $30/night is just as nice as the one that was $100 night, just a block further from the beach. No problem! It feels so good to be here and honestly the only thing missing for me at this point is a sexy female companion. Actaully, I am certain the same goes for Will too. Someday I will travel to these lovely places perhaps with a great love. For the first time in a long time, I could actually see myself doing it, too. Enough about the future though..
So today we are renting a tandem bike and heading off to yet another Pagoda. It has been three days without a single prayer and we have stuff to pray about. This is Will's suggestion actually, he wants to go to the pagoda...I could easily stay on the beach and not do another thing besides read and sleep. I feel confident that we will have no transportation issues with the bike. Traffic is slow and easy here.
We had a little too much to drink last night....the Why Not Bar has happy hour from 9am to midnight....we started there and then headed to the cycle cafe for dinner. While you are eating people often walk up and try to sell their stuff. I realize that when we are eating I am usually the one looking out and I simply shake my head and they go away and Will never really deals with these people because his back is to them...we had a reversal of that last night and I realize after parting with about ten dollars on stuff I would never have bought that we need to go back to the original plan OR Will needs to toughen up.
When we arrived at the cafe a woman was selling books (bootlegged copies) and wanted to know if I wanted one...I actually looked in her box and told her I had read everyone of them. Then I started asking her if she had read this one or that one...and that she should, it was a good book...kind of reverse harassment I guess. Anyway, she left and we sat down for dinner. Then another guy showed up selling books and Will said "later, after dinner." I said you cant tell that guy to wait and then not buy one! He said he never said he was going to buy one, just that he would look later....it has been my experience that if you say later, it means you will be BUYING one LATER. This was going to be good. We had our dinner and there was a woman who came in selling bracelets. I told her no. She went away. At the end of the meal I went to the bathroom and when I came out there was a young man on the floor with his portfolio out selling pictures of life in Vietnam. Will was looking at them. I could not believe it. Give an inch and they will take a mile and then when you say no after they have taken the time to show things to you they get really bossy and pout and get a little mad. I ended up buying a picture because I felt we had to karmically as this guy had went through his whole protfolio and the Will said he had no money. Ugh! So I parted with 100,000 dong (about $6). The guy had it all figured out....he rolled the picture into a tight roll and put it in a pvc tube. No problem. The guy was a really beautiful man....stunning actually and I told him that he should be a model and not selling other peoples artwork and he said the comment made him uncomfortable. I guess maybe the booze made me say such a flirtatious thing, but really, he was beautiful. Will agreed.
So, in the mean time while we are pouring over pictures the book guy has disappeared only to reappear with an insane amount of books! I looked at Will and said, ok now you have to buy a book! We ended up buying three books....two for me and one for Will. The guy was happy. We were finally leaving and the lady who had wanted to sell me bracelets earlier was still there. She had watched us give our money to two other people. She asked me again if I wanted some jewelry and I said no. She got pissed and said "excuse me....you buy photo, you buy book, why you no buy jewelry....." I looked at her and said, because I do not want....and walked away. It was probably a shitty thing to do but I had already said no. These folks have the inside track on how to tap into latent catholic guilt. I am STILL thinking about that lady even today!
Ok, thats enough...we have a pagoda to ride to and then there is always the beach...
Ciao
willandCODY
Monday, February 23, 2009
The BEACH!
Ok, People we decided at 4 pm to get the heck out of Ho Chin Min so we are on a 7:45 pm bus in about an hour on our way to the Beach of Nha Trang. We are both looking forward to reading and hanging out.
Currently our bellies are full of Pho. The food has been delicious here and we look forward to more to come. We (ok I...) ordered too much food tonight since I had not eaten all day and wanted to load up before we were sleeping on a bus. Suffering from some rebellious stomach Qi and food stagnation as I write this.
I made it to the Chinese section of town today (District 5) to see two last pagodas and hang out with the herbalists. It was great despite the fact that Wei had stood me up twice and I was waiting over an hour for him to take me today. I finally took an air-conditioned car which was exactly what I was supposed to do and got there in comfort and true safety. One of the Pagodas was a Taoist Pagoda...not too many of these around as the entire Taoist population of Ho Chi Min is reported as being around less than 6000. It was amazing. The depiction of the Five Elements was right on and interesting. Then I made my way over to the Tom Sam something something pagoda that is known to be the pagoda that women go to when they are trying to conceive and also it is known for Mothers and children. I spent a long time here today lighting bundles of incense for friends, patients...maybe even myself. There were not that many people at this pagoda which made me think that maybe fertility is more of a western issue....still, I appreciated the quiet and peaceful space to be able to pray.
Once back on the street my nose easily lead me to the herb section which was more than a block away. Smelled like a really well stocked herb room to me! So many huge bags of any kind of herb you wanted....plant or animal parts....no problem. I did not buy anything as I am certain a smelly bag at the LAX will only open me to scrutiny and I already have some items I have picked up that I want to keep and not surrender to an agent.
We are happy with the decision to move on and are really counting the days. We were booked on a 745 am bus and decided to go back to check to see if there was a night bus as we could easily get good sleep tomorrow on the beach and we should not waste valuable hours at this point. We are starting to worry about having enough time in Laos but I think we will be fine. Just costing a few things out at this point and I am looking to find a DHL stire to send a parcel back to America as my bag is already heavy. This does not include the bag I left in Bangkok either!
OK, more sometime tomorrow after we hit the beach. It is a 12 hour bus ride! But the busses in Vietnam are super sweet and cozy with air and a bathroom if you choose to be brave enough to enter one.
More later!
willandCODY
Currently our bellies are full of Pho. The food has been delicious here and we look forward to more to come. We (ok I...) ordered too much food tonight since I had not eaten all day and wanted to load up before we were sleeping on a bus. Suffering from some rebellious stomach Qi and food stagnation as I write this.
I made it to the Chinese section of town today (District 5) to see two last pagodas and hang out with the herbalists. It was great despite the fact that Wei had stood me up twice and I was waiting over an hour for him to take me today. I finally took an air-conditioned car which was exactly what I was supposed to do and got there in comfort and true safety. One of the Pagodas was a Taoist Pagoda...not too many of these around as the entire Taoist population of Ho Chi Min is reported as being around less than 6000. It was amazing. The depiction of the Five Elements was right on and interesting. Then I made my way over to the Tom Sam something something pagoda that is known to be the pagoda that women go to when they are trying to conceive and also it is known for Mothers and children. I spent a long time here today lighting bundles of incense for friends, patients...maybe even myself. There were not that many people at this pagoda which made me think that maybe fertility is more of a western issue....still, I appreciated the quiet and peaceful space to be able to pray.
Once back on the street my nose easily lead me to the herb section which was more than a block away. Smelled like a really well stocked herb room to me! So many huge bags of any kind of herb you wanted....plant or animal parts....no problem. I did not buy anything as I am certain a smelly bag at the LAX will only open me to scrutiny and I already have some items I have picked up that I want to keep and not surrender to an agent.
We are happy with the decision to move on and are really counting the days. We were booked on a 745 am bus and decided to go back to check to see if there was a night bus as we could easily get good sleep tomorrow on the beach and we should not waste valuable hours at this point. We are starting to worry about having enough time in Laos but I think we will be fine. Just costing a few things out at this point and I am looking to find a DHL stire to send a parcel back to America as my bag is already heavy. This does not include the bag I left in Bangkok either!
OK, more sometime tomorrow after we hit the beach. It is a 12 hour bus ride! But the busses in Vietnam are super sweet and cozy with air and a bathroom if you choose to be brave enough to enter one.
More later!
willandCODY
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Just a little bit more...on transportation
Hello everyone! I just wanted to mention again what a crazy city Saigon is and how it is just a sea of motos all driving around in no clear traffic pattern. Today the husband (named Wei...pronounced like the popular game Wii) decided to just drive on the sidewalk when he became impatient with the masses. Hang on! I was on the back of his scooter and his 11 year old son Wei Thoung was sitting on the front of the seat. So, I got to experience what a family of three feels like...plenty of room people now trade in those minivans and hatchback wagons!
We thought we were going to District 5 to the Chinese section of the city but it turns out that Wei had another idea...he was taking us out to the tunnels way out of the city. An hour and 10 minute ride by moto. Already my butt hurt but we agreed to it and made arrangements to go to District 5 tomorrow. Initially as we were driving out I found myself getting a little up-tight, not having wanted to come on this particular trip so far away and then something just gave way inside of me. Must have been my morning Yoga class...I did get my laundry back at 10pm last night and had Wei drive me to Yoga. It was a mix of Bikram and Ashtanga. The class was not hard at all and left me feeling a little disappointed that my body had not been worked to the max like I was hoping for but in the end I was going to need that strength to ride on a moto in the blazing heat all day. The yoga did help focus my mind and that alone was worth it. So, after I finally relaxed on the back of the moto I had lots of time to take in the countryside. We drove out past the rice fields, passing a funeral procession...this person had a coffin and would be buried above ground in a tile storage shed type deal. Some Buddists do not burn the body Wei said...he is a buddist but has no special Pagoda he attends. He does have a small shrine in his house that has a plastic cartoon looking fat and happy type of Buddha in it and I think of all the Buddha's I have seen in this lifetime, that this is probably truly the Buddha's favorite depiction of himself.
Back to the moto....so, I keep forgetting to comment on the Bougainvilla's and the Honeysuckle. The Bougainvilla grows into immense trees here. I am certain that if you give it any amount of unlimited area to grow it will kindly take all the space you have to offer. They are simply breathtaking as are the honeysuckle. I have noticed them at Ngapali beach in Myanmar where they will grow to be over three stories high. They have almost the same growth here. Amazing. Occasionally we will drive by a roadside nursery with all the plants in buckets and I just want to pull over and buy a bunch and some pots and get to the business of making a flower garden....guess I would have to buy a house here though, and while its nice, Ho Chi Min is not for me. Way too loud. And then there is the business of the motos.
So today this long moto ride took us to the tunnels of Cu Chi. The tunnels were there in a smaller version in this farming area back to when Vietnam was trying to gain independence from France (sidenote...still enjoying baquette..) When the American war started they added to the tunnels and they played a huge part in the Victory. The Americans could not get into the tunnels and essentially these crafty people would farm at night at then become guerrilla's by day. We were shown how they made seriously painful looking weaponry from metal that was sharpened into points and then buried pointed up in traps that soldiers would fall into and impale themselves on. They showed us how they would collect our huge fat bellied B52 bombs that had not detonated and saw them open for the gun powder to make their own bombs. It took a week to saw the bombs open...they had to go slowly and pour ladels of cold water over the crack so that the bombs would not detonate. Pretty crafty! We also saw the size of a hole that a detonated B52 bomb makes in the earth when dropped from the sky. Pretty big. Imagine the biggest in-ground pool you have ever seen then go a bit bigger. Oh! And we got to go in the tunnels...they were tiny and hot and I got out after 20 meters and Will stayed in for over 100! The guide said he would be a good guerilla. I would not have lasted long as one of these villagers. For over three years they LIVED in the tunnels. They could not live above ground because the Americans were bombing the crap out of the land trying to destroy the tunnels. And when they were not bombing them they were dumping Napalm on them. We were walking through a forest and I questioned the comment about napalm as everything seemed to be growning pretty well and frankly I did not want to be walking anywhere that Napalm had previously been...he hesitated and said this was another area....is it me or do my ovaries hurt....hmmm.
At the end of the tunnels we had the opportunity to shoot real live AK47's and M16's. We just had to buy the bullets (no less than ten..) we both declined. It seemed like a little too much glorification of war to me. Interesting things to note....these farmer's were initially motivated only because they wanted to save their land, then their family members started being killed and they were motivated by revenge and anger. Women and men fought alongside of each other equally. And if a guerrilla killed many US Soldiers they were given special merit and hero like honors. It was all documented on a movie that we watched at the beginning of the tour that was shot in about 1975 or so on Super 8 film and had pretty bad voice quality. I think this qualifies as the last war monument I care to see on this trip. On the way back in town we were shown a cemetary of Vietnam soldiers that looks just like any of America's National Cemetaries. The grave stones were shaped a little different and they all had a communist star in the middle of them but otherwise at first glance it was a bit disceiving.
So we are back in town and I am going to go to two more pagodas and to the Chinese section of town tomorrow in district 5. Not sure what Will is going to do but we are both getting ants in our pants to get to Nha Trang...the beach.
OH! Another important observation....in each country we have visited we are always amazed at the things people sell and how anyone ever makes enough money to even put food on the table. The one that truly puts us over the edge is the scale. Someone will have an actual scale...as in the kind you step on and check how much you weigh and they will charge others to step on it. I dont know the rate for this service but every time I see one ( and last nights was the kind you find in the doctors office and some woman was wheeling it off which I am certain must throw the scale off ) I think...no way...never in America!
Ok, time for a shower and a big bottle of water. Will and Wei are back at the house getting their drunk on....better to check in on the menfolk. maybe Jin (the wife) and I should go out tonight and leave the boys at home....
willandCODY
We thought we were going to District 5 to the Chinese section of the city but it turns out that Wei had another idea...he was taking us out to the tunnels way out of the city. An hour and 10 minute ride by moto. Already my butt hurt but we agreed to it and made arrangements to go to District 5 tomorrow. Initially as we were driving out I found myself getting a little up-tight, not having wanted to come on this particular trip so far away and then something just gave way inside of me. Must have been my morning Yoga class...I did get my laundry back at 10pm last night and had Wei drive me to Yoga. It was a mix of Bikram and Ashtanga. The class was not hard at all and left me feeling a little disappointed that my body had not been worked to the max like I was hoping for but in the end I was going to need that strength to ride on a moto in the blazing heat all day. The yoga did help focus my mind and that alone was worth it. So, after I finally relaxed on the back of the moto I had lots of time to take in the countryside. We drove out past the rice fields, passing a funeral procession...this person had a coffin and would be buried above ground in a tile storage shed type deal. Some Buddists do not burn the body Wei said...he is a buddist but has no special Pagoda he attends. He does have a small shrine in his house that has a plastic cartoon looking fat and happy type of Buddha in it and I think of all the Buddha's I have seen in this lifetime, that this is probably truly the Buddha's favorite depiction of himself.
Back to the moto....so, I keep forgetting to comment on the Bougainvilla's and the Honeysuckle. The Bougainvilla grows into immense trees here. I am certain that if you give it any amount of unlimited area to grow it will kindly take all the space you have to offer. They are simply breathtaking as are the honeysuckle. I have noticed them at Ngapali beach in Myanmar where they will grow to be over three stories high. They have almost the same growth here. Amazing. Occasionally we will drive by a roadside nursery with all the plants in buckets and I just want to pull over and buy a bunch and some pots and get to the business of making a flower garden....guess I would have to buy a house here though, and while its nice, Ho Chi Min is not for me. Way too loud. And then there is the business of the motos.
So today this long moto ride took us to the tunnels of Cu Chi. The tunnels were there in a smaller version in this farming area back to when Vietnam was trying to gain independence from France (sidenote...still enjoying baquette..) When the American war started they added to the tunnels and they played a huge part in the Victory. The Americans could not get into the tunnels and essentially these crafty people would farm at night at then become guerrilla's by day. We were shown how they made seriously painful looking weaponry from metal that was sharpened into points and then buried pointed up in traps that soldiers would fall into and impale themselves on. They showed us how they would collect our huge fat bellied B52 bombs that had not detonated and saw them open for the gun powder to make their own bombs. It took a week to saw the bombs open...they had to go slowly and pour ladels of cold water over the crack so that the bombs would not detonate. Pretty crafty! We also saw the size of a hole that a detonated B52 bomb makes in the earth when dropped from the sky. Pretty big. Imagine the biggest in-ground pool you have ever seen then go a bit bigger. Oh! And we got to go in the tunnels...they were tiny and hot and I got out after 20 meters and Will stayed in for over 100! The guide said he would be a good guerilla. I would not have lasted long as one of these villagers. For over three years they LIVED in the tunnels. They could not live above ground because the Americans were bombing the crap out of the land trying to destroy the tunnels. And when they were not bombing them they were dumping Napalm on them. We were walking through a forest and I questioned the comment about napalm as everything seemed to be growning pretty well and frankly I did not want to be walking anywhere that Napalm had previously been...he hesitated and said this was another area....is it me or do my ovaries hurt....hmmm.
At the end of the tunnels we had the opportunity to shoot real live AK47's and M16's. We just had to buy the bullets (no less than ten..) we both declined. It seemed like a little too much glorification of war to me. Interesting things to note....these farmer's were initially motivated only because they wanted to save their land, then their family members started being killed and they were motivated by revenge and anger. Women and men fought alongside of each other equally. And if a guerrilla killed many US Soldiers they were given special merit and hero like honors. It was all documented on a movie that we watched at the beginning of the tour that was shot in about 1975 or so on Super 8 film and had pretty bad voice quality. I think this qualifies as the last war monument I care to see on this trip. On the way back in town we were shown a cemetary of Vietnam soldiers that looks just like any of America's National Cemetaries. The grave stones were shaped a little different and they all had a communist star in the middle of them but otherwise at first glance it was a bit disceiving.
So we are back in town and I am going to go to two more pagodas and to the Chinese section of town tomorrow in district 5. Not sure what Will is going to do but we are both getting ants in our pants to get to Nha Trang...the beach.
OH! Another important observation....in each country we have visited we are always amazed at the things people sell and how anyone ever makes enough money to even put food on the table. The one that truly puts us over the edge is the scale. Someone will have an actual scale...as in the kind you step on and check how much you weigh and they will charge others to step on it. I dont know the rate for this service but every time I see one ( and last nights was the kind you find in the doctors office and some woman was wheeling it off which I am certain must throw the scale off ) I think...no way...never in America!
Ok, time for a shower and a big bottle of water. Will and Wei are back at the house getting their drunk on....better to check in on the menfolk. maybe Jin (the wife) and I should go out tonight and leave the boys at home....
willandCODY
Saturday, February 21, 2009
sacrificial flesh......
Hello everyone! We did it! Will is now my hero! We made our way around this crazy assed city on moto today with Will driving and me sitting on the bag with a book in my lap yelling out directions. Perhaps everyone should take a moment to google Ho Chi Min City and motos and you will quickly see what the fuss is all about. There are simply thousands of them, plus cars, and bicycles and everyone is vying for the same damn space you are currently occupying and the occasional traffic light is merely a suggestion as to what your next driving move should be. It is insane!
We slept in late as I surrendered my running clothes yesterday...VERY stinky! and we have yet to see any sign of them still today, more than 24 hours later. I am down to my last pair of pants, and t-shirt and not really sure what I am even wearing to bed tonight. Will and I have been maintaining a basic thread of modesty with each other on the trip so hopefully I will not have to disrupt the flow here. I think our clothes may be somewhere with my passport....locked up only to be handed over when we say we are leaving.
Anyway, after sleeping in we had a delicious breakfast and Iced coffee...my god this was not the trip to give up my addiction to coffee...it is simply just too good. Thankfully I held myself to one glass as I did not want a repeat of the other day when I was hungover and had two and thought I might stroke out. I also just had one because anytime I drink too much coffee my confidence level goes in the toilet and I have a wee bit of anxiety that creeps up on me...the heart can only take so much. So, considering that we were about to embark on a journey that surpassed ANY rollercoaster at Cedar Point in Sandusky Ohio, I wanted to be as calm as I possibly could. We agreed that after we rented the moto ($8/day) we would head to the first Pagoda we could and pay SERIOUS homage for safe travels. Maybe even light some incense. Well, we set out on our trip and the first place we drove by was the Unification Palace. We had just pulled up and I was inquiring where to park the scooter and trying to get us tickets to enter. I waved to Will to bring the scooter over and when he pulled forward the accelerator flooded and the scooter got away from him and they both went down. It was a scary sight. In hindsight it all happened very slowly and quite frankly looked like the perfect lay out of a slide head first into home plate. SAFE! I got over to him quickly, we piked up the scooter and assessed that he no longer had much skin left on his left toe and was also missing some epidermis from his left knee. We were both shaking!
It was all a bit much to take in. Also, it ripped his flip flop off and we both remembered lying awake in the middle of the night thinking quietly to ourselves to wear shoes today but then we both forgot. It was apparent that we needed to go back to the house and clean up the wound and get shoes on. I think we were both thinking...F! how are we going to do this!? The traffic is a major mind F-er.
We decided to stay and see the palace since we were already there and it was phenomenal! Best Palace yet in any country. Then we got back to the house and fixed up the wound. I took some Formula 303 (Magnesium and Valerian root) to calm my nerves and Will took some Advil. We took stock agreeing on the analogy as fellow cyclists that once you put on the shoes with clips and lock yourself to the pedals you will never get over your fear of falling over and not being able to get out until you just fall. And scratch yourself up and maybe chip a bone or two in your elbow. NO Problem! So, we agreed, that that was it. Will had taken the fall for us and we now no longer needed to do that again.
Once we headed out again we made the effort to finally get to that Pagoda! We arrived, bought insense and made a donation and Will stayed on his knees longer than I have witnessed yet! The rest of the day was a snap and we existed as one on the moto. We got lost and drove way out of the city. We visited Pagoda's that were more Taoist than Buddist and had amazing wood carvings. We even found the yoga studio where I can drop in tomorrow AM (provided I get my running shorts back) and do some Bikram yoga. We also made our way to the War Relics Museum. Over here it is referred to the American war, not the Vietnam war....anyway, it was really hard to make it through the museum. There was a major section that detailed the children and adults that were effected by Napalm. Even after almost two generations children are still being born with atrocious birth defects and cancers run high. It was a strange feeling being there as an American as well I have to admit. The faces of these young men....Will's age, being sent off to do God knows what and for WHY? were hard to look at. After two hours here my belly started to hurt and my mouth was dry and bitter tasting. The same occured even after visiting the Killing fields and S-21 in Cambodia.
I have not mentioned the Killing Fields in the blog yet. We went the morning we left for Kep, Cambodia. We found a really sweet man named T.V. who had the shittiest Tuk Tuk in Phnom Pen to drive us about 18 KM out of the city to the fields. There is a huge glass Pagoda that is about three stories high that is filled with skulls that have been dug up from the mass graves. As you walk around you can see pieces of clothing coming out of the ground from the victims. There is a huge area at the back of the excavated area that has not even been excavated thoroughly yet. It is estimated that over a million people were killed and burried at this one site alone. The Khmer Rouge used loud music and lots of chemical solvents to cover the bodies so no one would smell or hear and wonder what was going on. What struck me most was that the land right next to it had an elementary school on it and through the breeze you could hear the children doing their morning exercises...all speaking together....the sound of children was welcome input to my brain.
I think I may have about one more war relic scenario in me and then I have to bid it all goodbye. We will be making our way to a truly lovely beach as we head up the coast. After that we will cross the DMZ and hopefully that will be the end of the gloom and doom.
After we turned in the moto we found some peroxide and cleaned up Will's wounds a little bit better. And then I bought him dinner of a Burger and beer! He did an awesome job!
My GOD what a day! Tomorrow we are paying the husband at our house to drive us out to district 5 so I can nose around some Chinese people and see what types of herbs I can smuggle back into the country...If I ever get my shorts back I intend to go to Yoga. My body really misses it. May have to fly off to India to become a certified instructor so I can continue to afford it as even here in Vietnam it is $15/per class. Yikes! Those are American prices.
Ok folks...I have suffered more cortisol flowing through my veins than my adrenals can take today. Off to sweat in bed.
willandCODY
We slept in late as I surrendered my running clothes yesterday...VERY stinky! and we have yet to see any sign of them still today, more than 24 hours later. I am down to my last pair of pants, and t-shirt and not really sure what I am even wearing to bed tonight. Will and I have been maintaining a basic thread of modesty with each other on the trip so hopefully I will not have to disrupt the flow here. I think our clothes may be somewhere with my passport....locked up only to be handed over when we say we are leaving.
Anyway, after sleeping in we had a delicious breakfast and Iced coffee...my god this was not the trip to give up my addiction to coffee...it is simply just too good. Thankfully I held myself to one glass as I did not want a repeat of the other day when I was hungover and had two and thought I might stroke out. I also just had one because anytime I drink too much coffee my confidence level goes in the toilet and I have a wee bit of anxiety that creeps up on me...the heart can only take so much. So, considering that we were about to embark on a journey that surpassed ANY rollercoaster at Cedar Point in Sandusky Ohio, I wanted to be as calm as I possibly could. We agreed that after we rented the moto ($8/day) we would head to the first Pagoda we could and pay SERIOUS homage for safe travels. Maybe even light some incense. Well, we set out on our trip and the first place we drove by was the Unification Palace. We had just pulled up and I was inquiring where to park the scooter and trying to get us tickets to enter. I waved to Will to bring the scooter over and when he pulled forward the accelerator flooded and the scooter got away from him and they both went down. It was a scary sight. In hindsight it all happened very slowly and quite frankly looked like the perfect lay out of a slide head first into home plate. SAFE! I got over to him quickly, we piked up the scooter and assessed that he no longer had much skin left on his left toe and was also missing some epidermis from his left knee. We were both shaking!
It was all a bit much to take in. Also, it ripped his flip flop off and we both remembered lying awake in the middle of the night thinking quietly to ourselves to wear shoes today but then we both forgot. It was apparent that we needed to go back to the house and clean up the wound and get shoes on. I think we were both thinking...F! how are we going to do this!? The traffic is a major mind F-er.
We decided to stay and see the palace since we were already there and it was phenomenal! Best Palace yet in any country. Then we got back to the house and fixed up the wound. I took some Formula 303 (Magnesium and Valerian root) to calm my nerves and Will took some Advil. We took stock agreeing on the analogy as fellow cyclists that once you put on the shoes with clips and lock yourself to the pedals you will never get over your fear of falling over and not being able to get out until you just fall. And scratch yourself up and maybe chip a bone or two in your elbow. NO Problem! So, we agreed, that that was it. Will had taken the fall for us and we now no longer needed to do that again.
Once we headed out again we made the effort to finally get to that Pagoda! We arrived, bought insense and made a donation and Will stayed on his knees longer than I have witnessed yet! The rest of the day was a snap and we existed as one on the moto. We got lost and drove way out of the city. We visited Pagoda's that were more Taoist than Buddist and had amazing wood carvings. We even found the yoga studio where I can drop in tomorrow AM (provided I get my running shorts back) and do some Bikram yoga. We also made our way to the War Relics Museum. Over here it is referred to the American war, not the Vietnam war....anyway, it was really hard to make it through the museum. There was a major section that detailed the children and adults that were effected by Napalm. Even after almost two generations children are still being born with atrocious birth defects and cancers run high. It was a strange feeling being there as an American as well I have to admit. The faces of these young men....Will's age, being sent off to do God knows what and for WHY? were hard to look at. After two hours here my belly started to hurt and my mouth was dry and bitter tasting. The same occured even after visiting the Killing fields and S-21 in Cambodia.
I have not mentioned the Killing Fields in the blog yet. We went the morning we left for Kep, Cambodia. We found a really sweet man named T.V. who had the shittiest Tuk Tuk in Phnom Pen to drive us about 18 KM out of the city to the fields. There is a huge glass Pagoda that is about three stories high that is filled with skulls that have been dug up from the mass graves. As you walk around you can see pieces of clothing coming out of the ground from the victims. There is a huge area at the back of the excavated area that has not even been excavated thoroughly yet. It is estimated that over a million people were killed and burried at this one site alone. The Khmer Rouge used loud music and lots of chemical solvents to cover the bodies so no one would smell or hear and wonder what was going on. What struck me most was that the land right next to it had an elementary school on it and through the breeze you could hear the children doing their morning exercises...all speaking together....the sound of children was welcome input to my brain.
I think I may have about one more war relic scenario in me and then I have to bid it all goodbye. We will be making our way to a truly lovely beach as we head up the coast. After that we will cross the DMZ and hopefully that will be the end of the gloom and doom.
After we turned in the moto we found some peroxide and cleaned up Will's wounds a little bit better. And then I bought him dinner of a Burger and beer! He did an awesome job!
My GOD what a day! Tomorrow we are paying the husband at our house to drive us out to district 5 so I can nose around some Chinese people and see what types of herbs I can smuggle back into the country...If I ever get my shorts back I intend to go to Yoga. My body really misses it. May have to fly off to India to become a certified instructor so I can continue to afford it as even here in Vietnam it is $15/per class. Yikes! Those are American prices.
Ok folks...I have suffered more cortisol flowing through my veins than my adrenals can take today. Off to sweat in bed.
willandCODY
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